This rare William & Mary oak-framed, two-seater sofa, lot 17 from The Michael Baragwanath Collection, at auction in Fine & Decorative Interiors, is upholstered in distinctive 17th century flame-stitch. For many collectors flame-stitch has never been out of favour, however it is now consistently appearing top of the list in searches for current interior design trends.
Flame-stitch is also known as Irish stitch, Point de Hongrie, Florentine stitch and Bargello – named in this instance after the collection of flame-stitched 17th century chairs housed in the Bargello Palace, Florence. Flame-stitch work is a form of needlework usually stitched on a type of single-thread canvas, and it is characterised by the use of a single vertical stitch called the Florentine. In the classic row-based design, side by side stitches jump either ‘two up’ or ‘two down’ so creating the regular peaks and troughs forming the sense of wave-like bands. The number of names for the style indicates the uncertainty around its origins, and although seen from the 17th century in interiors and upholstery, and then later in accessories and fashion items the pattern dates from very early times – it is evident in the mosaic floors of 5th century BC Greek villas and the wings of an angel, as depicted by Guariento di Arpo (1310-1370), circa 1350, originally displayed in the Chapel of Palazzo Carrara, Padua.
The name Point de Hongrie for the pattern is attributed to the marriage of a Hungarian princess to a Medici in the 1600s. The romantic union is thought to have led to the blending of the jagged embroidery used in Hungarian decorative objects with the existing straight Italian stitch to create the style. It is clear that soon after this time flame-stitch was being produced in France on a large scale, with a mostly male workforce responsible for manufacturing the significant volumes required to meet demand on a commercial scale. Women, across all levels of society, made flame-stitch at home, with Empress Maria Theresa (1717-1780), mother of Marie-Antoinette and ruler of the Habsburg monarchy from 1740-1780, an enthusiastic devotee whose own flame-stitch work can be seen in the Hungarian National Museum, Budapest.
The flame-stitch pelmets, curtains and valances dressing the part Tudor bed within The Great Chamber of Parham House, West Sussex, from 1620, are amongst the earliest surviving examples of the pattern used in interiors. And, in 1637, the high status of flame-stitch in grand dwellings was further reinforced in the wedding portraits of an aristocratic couple in oil by the Dutch artist Wybrand Simonsz. de Geest (1592-1637). The bride’s right hand is draped over the back of a chair upholstered in flame-stitch, in an otherwise rather dark work the textile is a vivid, colourful addition which draws the eye.
Flame-stitch is known for its gradation of colours, with some examples featuring up to 20 different colours. It is perhaps helpful to consider it in the context of a 17th century home with its low light levels, flame-stitch would certainly have cheered and brightened rooms reliant on candles for illumination.
In March 2019 The Pedestal offered The William H. Stokes Collection of Early Works of Art & Furniture at auction. William Stokes was a leading dealer in early oak furniture, based latterly in Cirencester, and his collection included a remarkable and rare group of textiles, embroidery and tapestries. Lot 375 from the sale was an early 18th century panel of linen embroidered in flame-stitch with cream, red, green and dark blue wools, which sold for £1,625, a detail from which shows opposite.
Contemporary stylists writing in Vogue and House & Gardens remark on the flexibility of flame-stitch, noting that it is equally appealing and attractive in both period and modern homes. And, our William & Mary two-seater sofa at auction this November provides a great opportunity to acquire a design classic.
Fine & Decorative Interiors including The Michael Baragwanath Collection, The Knowle, Higham, Kent | Bidding closes from 5pm Thursday 25 November 2025
Find out more about The Michael Baragwanath Collection here